For those who need a bit of a refresher on lie angle, it’s defined as the angle that’s formed between the shaft and turf when the sole of the club is grounded. If you want to change the launch, you can bend the club weaker or stronger or try a different shaft.

And if you’re adjusting the lie angle, it’s possible you could be making a good swing and getting penalized because your specs are off. Getting the loft and lie angle checked is going to run you anywhere from $2-$5 per club, depending on the amount of work needed.

Being fit for lie angle is important because it affects the direction and flight of the ball. More loft typically generates a higher trajectory and more spin while lower loft causes the ball to fly lower and spin less. Too much spin can cause the ball to balloon up in the air and limit your distance.

What does 2 degrees flat mean? – A golf club can be bent two degrees flat when the lie angle is lowered and the heel of the club is raised to a position that is higher than the toe of the club. Golfers change the lie angle of a club to better their chances of hitting the center of the clubface.

Yes it will make a difference, I play 2 degree upright and +1/2. If your hitting the ball left all the while (I am guessing your right handed) won’t be to do with having the lye angle to flat. If the lye angle was to flat the toe would dig in first and open the face causing you to miss right.

A flat lie angle means that the angle between the shaft and the ground is smaller, making the club shaft more flat as compared with the ground. If your club is too flat for your swing then it means that during your swing, the toe of the club will be lower than the heel (normally you want them level at impact).

If your club is too upright at impact, then your shots will travel to the left of your target. Conversely, if your club is too flat, then your shots will be heading right. For every degree that your lie angle is either too upright or flat, the ball will initially travel 4 yards off your intended target line.

A golf club’s lie angle measures the angle formed by the shaft and the clubhead’s sole. If the lie angles of your clubs are 1 degree greater than the manufacturer’s standard, your clubs are 1 degree flat. If your lie angles are lower by 1 degree, the clubs are 1 degree upright.

Lie angles almost always range from the mid-50 degrees (in drivers) to the mid-60 degrees (in short irons). In irons, the range is typically from 59 or 60 degrees to around 64 degrees. (Lie angles on putters reach into the 70s.)

The upright lie also promotes a left tilting spin axis, which leads to what’s generally described as draw spin. An upright lie angle basically gives you a head start, but depending on the severity of the slice conditions the golfer generates, it certainly won’t guarantee a draw.

The lie angle will automatically change if clubs are lengthened. Only slightly but it will change.

All clubs — from putter to driver — should sole flat on the ground when you address the ball (main photo). If a club is too short or long, you’ll have to change your posture to get it to sit flush. If you’re tall with short arms, for example, you might need a club that’s more upright.

To create this type of stroke, the golfer needs to be in the correct set-up position. The golfer should then be able to place his hands on the handle of the putter with the head of the putter resting flat on the ground. This position gives the golfer the ability to create an efficient stroke.

How to Position the Clubface at Address. The face of the club should be positioned directly behind the ball at address. The line formed by the clubface should be perpendicular to the target line for normal, straight shots.

left hand

Setting the clubface slightly open at address allows you to: Release the club fully without fear of hooking. Swing the club naturally with relaxed arms for maximum clubhead speed—and therefore more distance. Develop better feel for how the club is aligned as it swings through impact.

With the wedges, irons and hybrid clubs, the hands should be at varying degrees ahead of the ball at impact to encourage a descending blow and correct swing arc. With the fairway woods and especially the driver, the hands need to be level with, or slightly behind the ball when off a tee, at impact.

At address, your hands should be slightly in front of the ball – exactly where you want them to return when you make contact. If it is cupped at address, you’ll be more likely to flip your wrists in the downswing and scoop the ball instead of hitting down.

If you have a neutral grip Above is the most desired position for the neutral-grip player. The left wrist is flat at the top and the club face is square at the top.

The arm ought to be straight, but not locked. Unlike your front arm, your back arm (right arm for a right-handed player) ought to be bent at the top of your swing. Not only should it be bent, but it should also be kept close to your side. You can check this fairly easily by looking at where the elbow points.

The Long Backswing A longer backswing position requires a shoulder turn that is past 90 degrees and the lower body action accommodates that with a free turn to the top.

Some players can handle a longer backswing, while others can’t. That being said, in general, most amateur golfers over-swing in their backswing, especially with their driver. This means they let their backswing get longer than they can handle. So, shortening of the backswing is needed to improve their overall game.

Improper weight transfer and dropping the right shoulder can lead to “fat” shots. Hitting behind the golf ball, or hitting it “fat,” is a common problem, especially with high handicappers. It is a frustrating mishit that results in added strokes to the scorecard.

Problem: When the ball flies dead right, it means your lower body slid ahead, which drops the club too far inside. Golfers see their tee shots go right and automatically curse the slice. Sometimes those are blocked shots caused by swinging too much from the inside.

At address, your hands should be slightly in front of the ball – exactly where you want them to return when you make contact. Also, make sure your left wrist (for a right-handed golfer) is in a relatively flat, firm position.

Most likely your club face is closed at impact, you’re swinging around your body on your follow through instead of more up/down and straight at your target, and you may be swinging with an “in-out” swing meaning that on your downswing your hands are moving your club away from your body.

Make a practice swing with your hand still on the shaft and one hand on the grip. You’ll notice that if you let the clubface rotate on its own, the palm moves underneath the shaft as you complete your backswing. On the downswing, your palm should rotate back to its square position at impact.

You’re Not Creating Space. Your position at the top can set up a weak downswing. As you swing to the top, maintain space between your right hand and right ear, or you won’t have enough room to swing down from the inside. This will also correctly move the top of your spine away from the ball.

To hit a straight shot, the club path should be zero. An “in-to-out” club path is necessary to hit a draw and an “out-to-in” club path is necessary to hit a fade. The optimal club path depends on the type of shot the golfer wants to play. A golfer may want to hit a 5 yard fade, straight shot, or 10 yard draw.

An out-to-in swing path is the opposite; the clubhead travels from the outside of the target line to the inside as it impacts the ball. With the clubhead traveling directly down the target line at impact, a true neutral swing path is technically possible, but not something that golfers consistently create.