Locate the valve; unplug the vacuum lines and the electrical connector. You can now remove the valve from the car. You can try to clean it without opening it. If that doesn’t work and you have good technical skills, or you want to do a deep cleaning, you could open the purge solenoid valve.

The cost to replace a purge valve in your car is generally between $110-$170, with the parts being the expensive price of the replacement, coming in at an average of $75-$110, while the labor usually only runs at about $50, meaning this is a quick and straightforward fix that does not take very long.

While you can still drive your car with a bad purge valve, you will only expose it to further damage not only to the EVAP system, but as well as to the other parts in your vehicle. The more you drive the vehicle with a bad purge valve, the more you will harm other parts. It is necessary to fix the problem eventually.

If the canister, or any of the supply lines, are blocked or have holes, the solenoid cannot function and the purge control valve will remain closed. In addition, the solenoid’s electrical portion can fail, resulting in the valve remaining closed.

To have your canister purge valve replaced, you will pay anywhere between $110 and $170. The parts are the expensive component here, as they will run between $75 and $110. The labor, on the other hand, usually only costs about $50, meaning this is a rather quick and straightforward procedure.

While it is safe to drive with an EVAP leak, you should not drive your vehicle for long while you do have a leak. If your Check Engine Light comes on, check to make sure the gas cap on your vehicle is securely fastened. If the light is still on, take it to a mechanic so the leak can be fixed.

Signs that your canister purge solenoid needs to be replaced include: Check Engine Light. Vehicle fails the emissions test. Stalling vehicle due to a leak in the EVAP system.

The fuel evaporative system (EVAP) controls emission by housing vapors from evaporated fuel and sending them back to the fuel tank to be reused. The cost for EVAP system repair ranges between $200 and $560. The labor alone will cost somewhere between $35 and $140, while parts will run somewhere between $150 and $440.

Each throws a very distinct code which will not shut itself off until the issue is fixed. If the condition that caused it to come on is a minor fault, and stops occurring, then yes, it will clear itself. If the condition indicates a larger problem, then it will stay on until cleared manually.

If you see a P0442 evaporative emission system leak detected code, you may be able to resolve the problem without much effort. The easiest solution may be to remove and reaffix the gas cap. Once you do, clear the code on the OBD-II diagnostic scanner and drive for a few days.

But while pollution control is a crucial feature, the EVAP also keeps potentially dangerous fumes from entering the interior of your vehicle. It can also prevent the combustible fuel from causing a more serious problem in your vehicle’s systems.

The EVAP emissions control canister is located on the driver side, near the rear tires.

If the EVAP monitor is not ready, verify that your fuel cap is tight and the level of fuel is between 1/4 and 3/4 full. If all the other monitors are ready, then do a couple more “cold” starts.

Start the engine and idle for four minutes, then drive in stop-and-go traffic for five minutes using smooth accelerations and decelerations. Stop and idle for 4 minutes. The EVAP monitor should be complete.

Answer: Your vehicle may pass the smog inspection with an incomplete EVAP monitor. – 2000 and newer model year gasoline powered vehicles will need all emission monitors in READY or COMPLETE status, with the exception of the EVAP monitor. An incomplete evaporative monitor will not cause a smog check failure.

The test has been rejected once. I have an Autotap and have been reading the emmission status through the ODB port. It says the EVAP & Seconday AIr System monitors are not ready. A complete driving cycle will perform diagnostics on all monitored systems and can usually be completed in less than fifteen minutes.

The second part runs after the vehicle has sit for 8 or more hours (cold soak) without being driven. Start the engine and idle for four minutes, then drive in stop-and-go traffic for five minutes using smooth accelerations and decelerations. Stop and idle for 4 minutes. The EVAP monitor should be complete.