Bicycle chain lubricant, chain lube or chain oil is an essential item for your bike maintenance. It ensures the hardworking moving parts of your bike chain are able to move smoothly past each other, it helps stop the chain wearing down or rusting, and makes your ride less clunky and more comfortable.

Be sure to use bicycle lubricant, not WD40 or another solvent. Putting anything other than bike lube on your components can cause them to corrode faster. I’ve had customers tell me they’ve used motor oil, baby oil, coconut oil, vegetable oil, etc.

If you are a frequent rider, using your bike several times throughout the week, your bicycle will benefit from a regular cleaning and lubrication of the drive chain. Bicycle Tutor recommends cleaning and lubricating your bike’s drive chain at least once every month to maintain optimal performance and protection.

Once the thinner evaporates, Vaseline will do its best to make your chain running quietly. The die-hard riders who prefer drifting in mud would probably use some more durable agent containing even more sticky Vaseline-like substance as for example the Bike WorkX Extreme lube.

Before screwing in the pedals, you need to grease them. If you have a titanium axle do not use grease, but instead use a titanium installation paste. Grease is water resistant and helps protect the treads of the pedal and crank from corrosion. When it’s time to change pedals again, you’ll be happy you greased them.

Any general automotive grease works. It’s cheap and you can find it almost anywhere. Timkin high-temp automotive bearing grease. It’s great stuff!

It’s better than nothing, but it will get washed out pretty quickly. It won’t harm anything but you should reinstall with proper grease (or anti-seize which is even better) once you have a chance to get some.

However, some of the lubricant options will actually degrade the lubricants. So, aside from brand bike chain lube, the most common options people opt for include olive oil, household greases, and cooking oil. The main reason being they are all easy to access at home.

That is all. Bike grease is esentially rebranded automotive grease so yeah that’ll work. Like people have said, it’s good for bearings and can also be used for screw threads (if you don’t have threadlocker, though never use threadlocker for pedal threads, there only grease works).

Spray the WD-40 Bike Degreaser onto the surface of your bike chain and give it adequate time to work. On top of that, the WD-40 Bike Degreaser can be used for the cleaning and degreasing of other moving parts as well.

I use white lithium grease for pedals all the time. Yes, you can use your finger, as far as I’m concerned.

Pedals are an excellent example of a component that is perfect for anti-seize. It’s a fitting that you know you will need to break loose at some point but not one typically requiring frequent removal.

Anti-seize has colloidal copper or lead and is especually effective when fastening dissimilar metals. I use it on all threaded surfaces (works great on wheel lug bolts). In bicycle applications, it is such light duty, any sort of grease will work.

Use anti seize with a small brush, one for applying soldering flux and lube to small parts. They sell them at the auto parts store. You’ll be fine with anti seize on ti-bolts, aluminum bolts. For steel bolts use the teflon.

Because of its high solids content, anti-seize can handle high load applications while still providing lubrication and friction reduction. Yet unlike grease, the solid lubricant in anti-seize can withstand high temperatures and protect parts from galling and seizure even under extremely stressful environments.

Do not use anti-seize as a lubricant such as on caliper slide pins or on threads for a bushing press or any mechanical assembly that requires a lubricant. Do not use anti-seize on exposed threads because the compound can attract contaminants that may contribute to thread damage when the fastener is removed.

Adding anti-seize will cause the bolts to loosen and quite quickly. This is due to the extreme vibration of the 2 stroke engine. However using low strength locite not only stops the bolts from loosening, but also slows corrosion.

Soft soap/White petroleum jelly/Vaseline.

• Copaslip. Copaslip is an anti-seize compound consisting of finely divided copper particles in a non-melting bentone base to which are added highly effective oxidation and corrosion inhibitors.
• Molyslip/MolyKote:
• Grease:
• Lubricating Oil.
• Vaseline/Petroleum Jelly/Soft Soap:

WD-40 is a good product, but Permatex is superior in that it is a long term anti-seize compound with a paste like consistency use to prevent rust and corrosion. WD-40 is used to loosen things and remove rusted parts. Anti seize is used to prevent parts from rusting together.

Never-Seez Regular Grade Lubricating Compound is a superior, anti-seize and extreme-pressure lubricant formulated to protect metal parts against rust, corrosion and seizure. Copper and graphite particles in special grease protect parts even in high-heat, high-pressure and corrosive environments.

The Best Anti-Seize Products

1. Permatex 80208 Anti-Seize Lubricant.
2. Permatex 81464 Anti-Seize Lubricant.
3. Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant.
4. Permatex 77164 Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant.
5. Permatex 31163 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant.
6. Loctite 299175 Paste Anti-Seize Lubricant.
7. Loctite 37617 Anti-Seize Lubricant.

It is not recommended for applications where copper is prohibited. Nickel Grade Anti-Seize is a premium anti-seize lubricant recommended for protecting metal fittings from rust, corrosion, galling and seizure at temperatures up to 2600° F.

Loctite® Heavy Duty Anti-Seize Provides outstanding lubrication to all metals including stainless steel, aluminum and soft metals up to 2400°F (1315°C).

Never-Seez High Temperature Stainless is specially designed for applications that cannot use nickel-based products. Comprised of stainless steel, graphite and aluminum-based anti-seize and lubricating compounds, it can protect parts in temperatures up to 2200°F.

Eases disassembly by preventing seizure and inhibiting rust and corrosion up to 1425°C (2600°F). Saves threads and parts for reuse by preventing galling damage and breakage during opening. Use on steel and stainless steel, iron, aluminum, copper, brass, titanium, etc.

Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs.

But experts tell us not to use any lubricant, including anti-seize compound, on wheel studs or nuts. The tech folks at Tire Rack state: “Torque specifications are for dry threads only. The fastener threads should be free of oil, dirt, grit, corrosion, etc. It is important NOT to lubricate hardware threads or seats.

In reality, yes you can use a little bit of anti seize by putting some on the stud and running the nut down and then back off so it spreads even. Clean off any globs and then torque to spec, not with an impact, unless you have a torq-stick.

Putting oil or any kind of lubricant on the wheel bolts, wheel nuts, or wheel studs is a very bad idea. If the surfaces are encouraged to slip, as oil would do, the wheel can come loose. Rust on these areas is common, and it does not matter as it is only on the surface.