Burning leaves release irritants into the air that can cause respiratory problems and other health issues. According to the EPA, burning leaves in an open area “produces particulate matter and hydrocarbons which contain a number of toxic, irritant, and carcinogenic (cancer causing) compounds”.

Leaves are classified as either alternate, spiral, opposite, or whorled. Plants that have only one leaf per node have leaves that are said to be either alternate or spiral. Alternate leaves alternate on each side of the stem in a flat plane, and spiral leaves are arranged in a spiral along the stem.

If you’re burning leaves, containing the embers is important for safety. Too many leaves at once will deprive the fire of oxygen and it will quickly die out. Fire pit kits aren’t intended for or safe for burning leaves.

Characteristics of Flammable Plants Highly flammable plants can ignite quickly, releasing lots of heat, even if they are healthy and well-watered. Characteristics of highly flammable plants include: Dry and dead leaves or twigs. Dry, leathery leaves.

Pilot tests showed that few leaves ignited in the open muffle furnace at temperatures below 400°C, or only did so after a very long period of time. Although all tested leaves ignited at 800°C, they tended to ignite almost immediately.

They can spontaneously combust, creating a safety hazard for homeowners. When leaves are wet and get enough warmth from the sun, they can become dangerous. Ashy remains of leaves were found in a metro backyard over the weekend. But it can happen — especially when a big pile of leaves starts to compost.

Parking on piles of fallen leaves creates a fire hazard. Dry leaves may ignite and the resulting fire can quickly overtake your car. Also, it’s best to avoid parking your car under trees that are shedding leaves, if possible.

Carbon-based animal or vegetable oils, such as linseed oil, cooking oil, cottonseed oil, corn oil, soybean oil, lard and margarine, can undergo spontaneous combustion when in contact with rags, cardboard, paper or other combustibles.

Spontaneous combustion can occur when a substance with a relatively low ignition temperature (hay, straw, peat, etc.) begins to release heat. Combustion begins if sufficient oxidizer, such as oxygen, and fuel are present to maintain the reaction into thermal runaway.

Therefore, when grass clippings are bagged, you have a large amount of clippings in a bag that is generating heat; and if that bag is broke open inside a trash truck or a compost bin, the gases produced by the grass clippings are exposed to oxygen, causing the material to ignite and catch fire (spontaneously combust).

It’s not totally clear whether 100% tung oil can spontaneously combust, so treat it like it does. As linseed oil dries, it generates heat as a byproduct. Dried oil on rags is no different than a dried oil finish or stain on a piece of wood.

Rags soaked with tung oil can spontaneously combust (burst into flame).

Spontaneous combustion becomes a possibility when flammable finishes like linseed or tung oil combine with air and oxygen in a natural chemical reaction that creates heat. If other combustible materials are nearby, this little act of magic can quickly develop into a full raging fire.

Oil finishes include boiled linseed oil, tung oil, and a mixture of varnish and one or both of these oils. You can create an ultimately smooth oil finish by sanding each coat while it’s still wet on the surface using very fine grit sandpaper. Then wipe off the excess and allow what’s left to cure overnight.

Polyurethane dries faster than tung oil and takes only 12 hours to cure. Polyurethane sits on top of the wood to form a protective barrier that is watertight in only two coats. When considering tung oil versus polyurethane for wood floors, polyurethane wins the debate every time.

five coats

The oil penetrates into the wood, providing a relatively hard surface that repels water, giving it a waterproof finish. When tung oil is not thinned, in other words, it’s 100% tung oil, it’s a non-toxic finish. Meaning it’s an ideal wood surface that can come in contact with food.

Our Experts Weigh In. Woodworking Expert – Michael Dresdner: “Yes, I would put a coat or two of oil-based polyurethane on for more durability, and it is fully compatible over the dried tung oil (or linseed oil, or any other drying oil for that matter.) Add at least three coats, at one coat per day.

How to Apply Tung Oil

1. Use a clean, dry, soft rag to rub, a natural bristle, or foam brush to stroke on a generous first coat of tung oil.
2. Wait up to 40 minutes to continue after the porous surface has absorbed the first coat.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 by applying a second coat and allowing it to absorb into the surface.

There are three surefire ways to waterproof your wood for years to come.

• Use linseed or Tung oil to create a beautiful and protective hand-rubbed finish.
• Seal the wood with coating of polyurethane, varnish, or lacquer.
• Finish and waterproof wood simultaneously with a stain-sealant combo.

4 years

Thompson’s WaterSeal products only need one application, but you can apply a second coat of stain to make the wood look better. You need to apply the second coat within 4 hours of applying the first coat.

every one to three years

Q: What is the best way to apply Thompson’s® WaterSeal® cleaners? The fastest way to apply is with a pump-up sprayer (using a coarse setting), but you can also apply with a brush or a roller. You should apply liberally.

You can put either oil or latex paint on either primer but using a primer that matches the type of previous finish always seems to bond better.

Apply 2 coats using brush,roller or sprayer. note: Use at full strength.do not dilute. The second coat should be applied when the first coat has soaked in the surface. For best results do not leave the first coat to dry for more than 1 hour before applying the second coat.