A 10 amp fuse will be used to power and protect a circuit that requires a maximum input current of 10 amps. If due to an electrical fault or overload, a current that is significantly over that rating of 10 amps, the fuse will blow – cut off power by destroying itself.

Yes of course there is. The cable or flex attached to the gas fire is purely to supply the ignition. The flex provided is not rated to 13A because the ignition requires very little current and so the flex requires protection by a 3A fuse.

There are two main types of plug fuse: the 3A fuse and the 13A fuse. In simple terms, a 3A fuse should be used for appliances rated at 700W or less, and a 13A fuse for appliances rated over 700W.

Find the size of fuse by multiplying the amps required by the device (2) by 1.5. 2×1.25 = 2.5 then we will round up to the nearest fuse size (in multiples of 5 amps) which would call for a 5 amp fuse. Cross Reference that fuse size to verify that it’s below the Maximum fuse size called out by this chart.

In order to select the right amperage of the fuse, you first need to know the full-load steady-state current of the circuit at an ambient temperature of 25º C (68º F). Once the current value is determined, then a fuse rating should be selected as to be 135% of this value (taken to the next standard value).

Possibly yes. It is possible to short out a circuit by overdrawing more than 5 Amp by removing the 5 Amp fuse and putting in a 10 Amp fuse.

1200 Watts

9,600 watts

Add all the fuse values together and you have the max the amps can draw. So if for exapmle the 2000w amp has 2-80a fuses..and the 300w has a 30a fuse.. 190a would work but I would reccomend going slightly over in case of a surge..so a 200a would be fine.

A class D with 80% efficiency about 920 watts. Of course the fuse would probably heat-up and eventually blow when passing current at its rating. You could most likely achieve more wattage for short periods of time before the fuse blows.

2,400 Watts

3,600 watts

19,200 watts

A 100-amp service is good for a home of less than 3,000 square feet that does not have central air-conditioning or electric heat. A home larger than 2,000 square feet that has central air-conditioning or electric heat probably needs a 200-amp service.

You can pop a 100 amp breaker in the 200 amp box and use your new 100a panel as a sub panel but adding a main higher than the rated panel main if it fits will melt the buss bars. Not to mention melt the meter face wiring, all of your main feeders unless they are already rated to handle the load.

Upgrading an electrical panel from 100 to 200 amps costs $750 to $2,000. This does not include running new wiring for additional circuits.

As Kelly Kinkade says, a 200 amp panel is usually physically larger than a 100 amp panel, allowing you to add more branch circuits. And it will handle a larger combined load (200 amps as opposed to 100 amps). And it will handle a larger combined load (200 amps as opposed to 100 amps).

For a 200 amp service, you will need to use a #4 AWG wire for copper conductors, or a #2 AWG for Aluminum or Copper-Clad Aluminum.

The Best 200 Amp Panels

• Square D by Schneider Electric HOM2040M200PCVP.
• Siemens MM0202B1200 200-Amp Meter Main Combination.
• Square D by Schneider Electric Outdoor Main Breaker.
• Siemens PW0816B1200TC Main Breaker.
• GE PowerMark Single Phase Standard Main Breaker.
• Siemens S4040B1200P Indoor Load Center.

200 Amps is the minimum recommended service panel size in full size modern homes. Some situations will require significantly more. Larger homes or homes with a machine shop or car lift in the garage can require as many as 400 amps.