The optimum torque value for your car or mounted rims can be found in the vehicle manual. It depends on the car model, rim size, design (aluminium or steel rims) and number of bolts. It is normally between 110 N⋅m and 120 N⋅m.

Any repair manual specific to your vehicle (Chilton’s, Haynes, Motor, Factory manual, etc.) You can find them at most parts stores, you can check them out at your public library, you can find them on eBay and sometimes on craigslist, and you can download a pdf file from the internet, often free!

New wheels should be re-torqued after the first 50 to 100 driving miles.

Torque is measured as a unit of force acting on a rotating lever of some set length. Remembering that torque is the turning effort or force applied to the fastener to preload it, or place it in tension, and is normally expressed in inch-pounds (in.lb) or foot-pounds (ft.lb). …

A practical way to calculate the magnitude of the torque is to first determine the lever arm and then multiply it times the applied force. The lever arm is the perpendicular distance from the axis of rotation to the line of action of the force. and the magnitude of the torque is τ = N m.

In the case of insufficient torque, it’s the stud or the bolt itself that suffers all the impact, causing it to shear. Alternatively, the engine’s vibrations can cause the bolt or nut to come undone, displacing the tensioner.

When installing the wheels on a vehicle after servicing, it is important to torque the lug nuts properly. Lug nuts that are not tightened correctly can ruin wheels, affect rotor runout and can be deadly if the wheel comes off or studs snap. Over-torqueing the lug nuts does not affect runout immediately.

Re: Torquing bolts without a torque wrench FM-USA wrote: Quite true! The need for torque wrenches is ALMOST an absolute must. Steel bolts in aluminum is a disaster in the making. Over torquing by 10% combined with heat/cool cycles will in time damage the aluminum threads.

If you plan to do any major work on your engine or on some major powertrain components, you absolutely need a torque wrench. Overtightening cylinder-head bolts, for instance, can easily cause expensive damage and catastrophic coolant loss. Too-tight exhaust manifold bolts can cause the manifold to crack.

A quick glance at a lug nut torque chart shows that most lug nuts should be torqued between 80 and 100 ft-lbs. Some require less torque, others more. But for the purpose of this discussion, let’s say that a lug nut must be torqued to 100 ft-lbs. 100 ft-lbs is the same as 1200 in-lbs.

Start by installing the spark plug by hand. Tighten to recommended torque….

1/4 drive, rated for up to 90 ft/lbs of torque.

If you assume a reasonable quality tool steel that can handle 100K psi, a 1/4″ drive can take about 30 ft-lb, 3/8″ about 100 ft-lbs, 1/2″ about 230 ft-lbs, and 3/4″ about 800 ft-lbs.

For accuracy, we have ascertained that it is +/-2 percent accurate across the entire torque range, which by the way is 30 to 150 ft-lbs. This is no small feat as many torque wrenches can have up to 10ft-lbs off the required accuracy as you move higher up the torque settings. Digital torque adapters use batteries.

4 to 15Nm is fine for all of those smaller screw driver tasks around the home. 15 to 35Nm is a great all-rounder to drill and drive medium sizes screws and hole drilling. 35Nm upward will tackle all of those more serious project with bigger screws and holes.

On the back of the box, it says that Ridgid’s 12V drill can actually deliver 400 in-lbs of torque. This is a LOT of torque for a 12V-class tool. And, if accurate, this means that Ridgid’s 12V compact drill/driver is more powerful than many DIY and mid-level brands’ 18V and 20V Max cordless drills.

Voltage ratings of 4 to 8 volts are sufficient for light-duty cordless screwdrivers, and drills with 12 to 18 volts will meet most homeowners’ work needs. A high-power model handles heavier work, but more voltage means the tool has a bigger, heavier battery. A cordless drill battery needs recharging periodically.

Some cordless tools require more power than others. Tasks that use more torque need batteries with a higher voltage to complete the toughest jobs. That’s why many craftsmen choose to use the 20V MAX* instead of the 12V battery for the toughest jobs: higher voltage generates more torque.

9.6 to 18V

Power. It’s obvious 18-volt tools are more powerful than their 12-volt brethren, but 12V vs 18V isn’t just about power. You simply may not need all that torque. Otherwise, you’ll probably find that 12 volts will give you enough power for all the work you ask it to do.

In most cases, yes. While a cordless drill will not be as effective in drilling through concrete, it can get the job done. Your drill’s battery power and other drilling features will play a role in its ability to drill into the concrete effectively.

The best 12V cordless drill models do a lot of work for both Pros and DIYers. They’re able to handle around 80% of the work that 18V/20V Max models can. Even compared to the compact 18V class, these are lighter with a smaller footprint. They’re easier to use, but the trade-off is more than just speed and power.

The simple and easy answer is yes. However, I do need to put some caveats around that definite YES. A more honest answer is that most cordless drills, can easily handle cement, brick, mortar and concrete.

You will be trying to drain hundreds of square inches of surface area into a (maybe) 9 – 12 square inch hole. That small of an area opening will quickly saturate the soil and be of little or no use. To answer your question directly: Yes, it is easy to drill through concrete with the right equipment.

Brushless types of drills are worth the extra money because you’ll get a better torque value in a smaller design compared to brushed models. There’s no friction to take away from the motor’s torque so the circuitry puts out as much power as possible to the work at hand.

You can drill holes in concrete with a regular drill. You will need a bit more patience and a wider array of drill bits when using a regular drill, but the procedure is the same for drilling in concrete regardless if you use a regular drill or a hammer drill.

Can I Drill With an Impact Driver? If you’re drilling holes at 1/4-inch or under, you’ll be able to drill through brick and some concrete with an impact driver. Impact drivers have a freakish amount of torque, but they are not designed to be used like a regular drill or hammer drills.

A regular drill on its own isn’t all that effective when it comes to drilling into concrete. But, when combined with masonry drill bits, a nail, and a ton of time and dedication, you can technically use a regular drill when it comes to concrete drilling.