Lobelia is used for breathing problems including asthma, bronchitis, whooping cough, and shortness of breath (apnea) in newborn infants. Some people take lobelia as a sedative to help them relax. Other people use it to increase sweating.

The most commonly used is Lobelia inflata, though several species may be beneficial for health. Studies suggest that compounds in Lobelia inflata may aid asthma, depression, and other health issues. However, high doses can be toxic and may cause serious side effects.

In terms of its toxicity level, lobelia is rated a major toxin. This means that ingestion of the plant can be the cause of serious consequences which may be fatal. Also, the various parts of this plant can result in dermatitis that can be painful and cause your pet much distress.

At most, 1 ml was given three times per day. The absolute maximum amount to take should be that which causes no, or minimal, nausea. Lobelia ointment has also been used topically on the chest to relieve asthma and bronchitis . People should apply such ointments liberally several times per day.

Lobelia is a potentially toxic herb. It can be safely used in small doses (particularly homeopathic doses), but moderate-to-large doses may cause side effects ranging from dry mouth and nausea to convulsions and even coma (see “Precautions” section).

This includes trimming to remove spent blossoms. For spiky types, wait until the entire spike has faded before clipping out the stems. Cut back the plant by half or more at the end of its bloom period. Trimming back lobelia plants keeps them from looking messy, and it may encourage another flush of blooms.

Although they prefer light to partial shade, they have been flowering at the Wildflower Garden at Seaside Nature Park for more than five years now in full sun. fertilize Lobelia cardinalis every two weeks from midsummer to fall, as they appreciate a rich, moist soil.

Lobelia erinus is the annual, producing masses of flowers throughout the summer and well into autumn until the first severe frosts. There are two types: the upright, bushy varieties and those that have longer, trailing stems, making them perfect for hanging baskets and the edges of containers.

How to Overwinter Lobelia Annuals. In warmer zones, annual Lobelia can remain outdoors and will continue to bloom if cut back. Eventually, the plant will die out but should reseed. Northern gardeners will have to plant these Lobelias in containers and bring them indoors before any danger of frost.

Careful watering is essential in getting lobelia perennials off to a good start. Water thoroughly at least once a week to help new roots grow down deeply. Soil should be damp at about 1 inch below the soil surface.

Cuttings from many annual plants will keep over winter, sprout roots, and be ready for planting in spring. You may place them in pots or cups without drainage filled with moist perlite or vermiculite. Locate them at first in bright light, away from the sun. Move later to an area where they receive morning sun.

Half-hardy perennial salvias can be left in the ground where they have been growing if the soil is not too cold or wet in winter. Cut back the top growth to 15cm and protect the roots and basal buds with a thick layer of manure or bark chippings. Uncover the plants in early spring when the worst of the frosts are over.

Hardy perennial salvias can be cut back hard in spring or autumn. Half-hardy herbaceous types can be cut back in autumn but must then spend winter in a frost-free place. If you’re attempting to keep them outside, resist pruning until spring.

When blooms are spent, remove these spikes to encourage additional flowering. If the salvia plant begins to look tired or overgrown by midsummer, you can also remove one-third of the plant. Salvia plants will regrow and reward you with blooms that last until autumn.

In some areas of the world they grow into shrubs that stay green all year long. In others, there are herbaceous types that die back in the colder seasons and woody types, which stay up after losing their leaves in the winter. Overall, Salvia prefers to grow in hot, dry conditions with well-drained soil.

All salvias thrive in full sun and well-drained soil. Many varieties (typically those with light-colored flowers) will also do well in part-shade, but flowering will be reduced.

The foliage has a yummy blackcurrant aroma when you crush it or brush past. If the plant gets too floppy, prune it in spring and ‘Hot Lips’ will leap back into life.

spathacea), Autumn Sage (S. Creeping Sage and ‘Bee’s Bliss’ Salvia are similar groundcovers. Both are found in the California Native section of the Demonstration Garden. These evergreen perennials reach a height of four to six inches, and a single plant can spread 12 feet or more.

‘Hot Lips’ is only borderline hardy and some people recommend that you lift it now and store it under glass over the winter. So moving it now shouldn’t be a problem. I lift a lot of similar shrubby Salvias at this time of the year to overwinter them under glass and they don’t seem to mind.

With a sharp knife or secateurs, cut several stems from non-flowering shoots in late summer and place in a plastic bag. Collect material in the morning when it is at its most hydrated.

Herbaceous plants should be lifted and divided between the early autumn and mid-spring, depending on weather conditions. This means that in areas where the weather is mild in the fall, divide the herbs. In colder regions, herb plant division should occur in the spring when the roots are still slumbering.

As you transplant, you may wonder, “Can you divide salvia plants?” Yes. But dividing salvia is riskier than simply transplanting the whole plant. This is because you are ripping apart a larger percentage of the roots. Woody evergreen salvias are a bit fussier about transplanting than herbaceous perennials.

Shrubby herbs, like rosemary, thyme, lavender, sage, marjoram and oregano, are all suitable for taking cuttings, and although you can do it later in the year, when the stems are more mature, I prefer to take softwood cuttings in the spring, when the bushes are bursting with new energy and fresh growth.

As you know, hostas are one of the best perennials for your shade garden. Hostas grow very quickly, so you want to divide the plants to keep them healthy. They grow from spring through fall, so the best time to divide is either early spring or in the fall.

You’ll know your hostas need to be divided when they get too crowded and the center of a clump starts to die out. As a general rule, count on dividing the plants every three to four years to keep them at their healthiest.

When choosing companion plants, begin with favorites heuchera (pronounced HUE-kerr-uh) and hardy ferns. These two perennials enjoy the same light conditions as hosta – bright morning sun and cool afternoon shade.

Best Time To Fertilize Hostas To ensure vibrant green leaves, feed your hosta in the spring when the leaves begin to pop out of the ground. For best growth, fertilize it every 4 weeks. Do not feed the hostas mid to late summer. This can cause new growth to start which could be easily damaged by oncoming frost.

Hostas crave a steady nutrient supply throughout the growing season. A month after planting, feed them with Miracle-Gro® Shake ‘n Feed® All Purpose Plant Food, making sure to follow the directions on the label. This will keep your hostas fed for up to three months.

To keep your growing hostas healthy, fertilize them each spring with an all-purpose garden fertilizer. Additional summer fertilizing may be helpful, but not necessary. Granular fertilizers should never sit on the leaves. With the exception of crown rot and leaf rot, Hosta plants are relatively disease free.