Wind erosion is much more severe in arid areas and during times of drought. For example, in the Great Plains, it is estimated that soil loss due to wind erosion can be as much as 6100 times greater in drought years than in wet years.

Due to human activities like deforestation, overgrazing, construction and mining, etc. Natural forces like wind, glacier and water leads to soil erosion. Wind blows loose soil off flat or sloping land, and is called wind erosion. Soil erosion is also caused due to defective methods of farming.

Providing just enough water and not drowning your plants helps to prevent issues with heavy rainfall. One way to accomplish better water use is a drip-irrigation system or other low-water intensive irrigation methods.

Rain may move soil directly: this is known as ‘rainsplash erosion’ (or just ‘splash erosion’). Spash is only effective if the rain falls with sufficient intensity. If it does, then as the raindrops hit bare soil, their kinetic energy is able to detach and move soil particles a short distance.

Yep is right. And there’s soil saving going on right now. Farmers have ways underway to keep their soil on the land so they can keep on growing food for us. One way is with windbreaks, rows of trees that are planted beside fields to keep the soil from blowing away.

Cover crops, such as vetch, rye, and clover, are excellent plants for erosion control. These hardy, easy-to-grow plants send out nets of roots that help hold topsoil in place while also reducing competitive weeds. When tilled back into the soil, they increase the nutrient density as they compost.

Let’s take a look at 25+ ways to protect and conserve the soil.

• Forest Protection. The natural forest cover in many areas has been decreased due to commercial activity.
• Buffer Strips.
• No-Till Farming.
• Fewer Concrete Surfaces.
• Plant Windbreak Areas.
• Terrace Planting.
• Plant Trees to Secure Topsoil.
• Crop Rotation.

Erosion can be caused by rainfall, wind, or melting ice that can cause runoff to wash away topsoil. Inadequate growing conditions and areas of the yard exposed to high activity can also lead to erosion. Some signs of erosion are bald spots in your yard, exposed roots or swampy areas.

Rain will both erode the topsoil and leech away nutrients. For long term storage, compacting the top layer of the pile will help against erosion, though the use of a tarp is still recommended.

Compost nutrients are not washed away by rainfall, so you have less waste and less harm to the environment. Ultimately, compost is the best way to actively help the natural cycle of growth and decay that our world has thrived on for thousands of years.

Fine-tune your pile’s moisture and air levels by:

1. Turning the organic matter to introduce more air and/or dry out wet materials.
2. Adding dry carbon materials, such as leaves, straw, or sawdust, to soak up excess moisture.
3. Rewetting materials if they dry out, usually at the same time you turn the pile.

Storing Bagged and Bulk Mulch To store surplus bulk mulch, place the landscape material on a tarp and cover the pile with a second tarp to keep the supply dry. Leave some of the edges free so that air can easily flow underneath the tarp and through the mulch.

That potting soil is worn out because the peat moss has decomposed. That peat moss can decompose even if you never take it out of the bag. If your potting soil has been sitting in your shed since last year in an opened bag and it’s gotten wet, toss it. If it somehow stayed bone dry, it should be OK to use.

How to Revitalize Your Old Potting Soil

1. 1 – Lay the Soil Out on a Tarp.
2. 2 – Clean with Water.
3. 3 – Make a 50/50 Mix.
4. 4 – Test the pH and Adjust as Required.
5. 5 – Add in a Slow-Release Fertilizer.
6. 6 – Let it Cure.

Smelling soil should be a pleasant experience; fresh soil gives off an earthy, but not dirty, scent. If the soil of your houseplants or outdoor plants has a rotten odor, including traces of sulfur or ammonia, then the most likely cause is that too much water gathers in the soil.

You do not need to replace the soil in raised garden beds. Amending the existing soil is typically sufficient to restore nutrients to allow for better plant growth.

You can line your raised bed to make it more durable and to prevent toxics from leaching into the soil. For lining, use landscape fabric found at garden supply stores or cloth fabric from clothing. Avoid non-porous plastic, as it can retain too much water and discourage beneficial insects and worms.

Potting Mix is formulated to feed the soil for plants growing in indoor and outdoor containers, while Raised Bed Soil with its slightly larger particle size, has versatile uses for both larger containers and raised bed gardening.

Step 1: Replenish Soil In Between Seasons Ideally, we think it’s best to consider replenishing the soil between each season i.e. after every Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer harvest; however, if you can only do it once a year, that’s alright too.

Compost is an essential ingredient in the best soil for a raised garden bed, no matter which mix of ingredients you choose. I filled my beds with about 3/4 triple mix, and even though it had compost in it, I top-dressed the garden with about ¼ compost.

The bottom of a raised garden bed should be a layer of grass clippings, leaves, wood chips, straw, and other organic material. The cardboard should be placed on top of that layer. The organic material will turn into compost, while the cardboard will prevent weeds.