Black Smoke consists of fine particulate matter. These particles can be hazardous to health especially in combination with other pollutants which can adhere to the particulate surfaces. Black Smoke is emitted mainly from fuel combustion. Black smoke is measured by its blackening effect on filters.

The type of fuel and how hot it’s burning. In general, a hotter fire will convert more fuel into elemental carbon, which forms into tiny particles that absorb light and appear in the sky as black smoke. First, the hot, flaming combustion of dry underbrush releases little particles of black soot into the atmosphere.

Black exhaust smoke simply means that your engine is burning too much fuel. Engines need both fuel to burn and oxygen to burn it with. If there’s too much fuel in the combustion chamber and not enough oxygen to burn it with, it can cause black smoke to come from your exhaust.

The primary cause of black smoke is an overly long wick. When a candle burns, the wax near the flame melts and the liquid wax is pulled up the wick to feed the flame. If the wick is too long, the balance of heat and fuel will be off. This throws off the chemical reaction and can produce excess soot and smoke.

“Trim it every time you use your candle and make sure it isn’t longer than a couple millimeters – the same length as when new.” Doing this will also prevent a build up of black smoke and stop the glass candle-holder from overheating.

When candle materials burn inefficiently, it is because combustion is incomplete. The resulting black soot is hydrocarbon-based. Candle soot production normally begins when the particulate matter produced reaches .

If you find that your candle flames are burning too high, there are two potential causes. One potential cause is that the wick is too “thick” — a decision by the manufacturer you can’t do much about. The other potential, and more common, cause is that the wick is too long and needs to be trimmed.

When one candle burns faster than another, it means its energy and its power is unveiling its magic to you. If a candle burns without problems, without smoke, charcoal, soot, tears, etc., but it burns too fast, it is an indication that you will have good results, but they may not last long.

A heating solution that heats wax evenly will ensure even mixing during this process. Prevents overheating. Overheating can also cause discoloration—along with cracking, poor fragrance throw, poor glass adhesion, frosting, and rough tops—ultimately creating a weakened product.

If your candle flame looks like it’s burning too high, this may be because it’s burning too hot. When you have a strong flame, it appears very tall or it could flicker or smoke. If you see any of these signs or feel the flame is out of control, extinguish the flame immediately to eliminate fire hazards.

Homemade candles won’t burn or stay lit for the following reasons: The Wick is untrimmed or does not have the right size, or is too thick. Uneven candle surface or candle tunneling. And finally, a full melt pool was not formed with the first burn or moving air, which caused your wick to drown in the wax pool.

If the flame looks small and weak, extinguish it and carefully pour the liquid wax out of the candle on to a paper plate to cool then throw it away. You will now have an indent in the wax exposing more of the wick. Re-light the wick and allow it to burn for another 20 to 30 minutes and check it again.

“The first burn is the most important—the candle wax must pool to the edge on the initial burn. We always like to remind people that wax has memory, meaning that if your candle doesn’t burn to the edges, it will begin to tunnel and won’t burn evenly the next time.