Thrust bearings

Explanation: There is no inclination in the line of reaction and hence only thrust loads can be carried. This discussion on Which of the following cannot take radial load? a)Cylindrical Roller bearingb)Taper roller bearingc)Thrust ball bearingd)None of the listedCorrect answer is option ‘C’.

A thrust ball bearing consists of a row of balls running between two rings— the shaft ring and the housing ring. Thrust ball bearing carries thrust load in only one direction and cannot carry any radial load.

In order to calculate radial loads :

1. Assume that the shaft is a circular beam and is laid horizontally.
2. Mark the bearing locations on the beam (shaft) and treat each bearing as a roller pin support.
3. Apply the vertical loads on the beam as per given conditions.

Radial Load is defined as the maximum force that can be applied to the shaft in the radial direction (any direction perpendicular to the motor shaft axis). Axial Load is defined as the maximum force that can be applied to the shaft in the axial direction (in the same axis as or parallel to the motor shaft axis).

Axial bearings, or thrust bearings, are designed to withstand force in the same direction as the shaft. This is called an axial load, or thrust load. Radial ball bearings are designed to withstand forces that are perpendicular to the direction of the shaft, or radial loads.

Tapered roller bearings

A radial goes away from a VOR – specifically, magnetic directions going away from the VOR (so the 270 radial leads due west away from the VOR). Bearing is a course your airplane could fly. The needle tells you which way you’d have to go to go directly TO or FROM the VOR using the heading you selected.

An oil restrictor is recommended for optimal performance with ball bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure of 40 – 45 psi at maximum engine speed is recommended to prevent damage to the turbocharger’s internals. Recommended oil feed is -3AN or -4AN line or hose/tubing with a similar ID.

A new turbo has some play because of the oil clearance, there has to be enough room between the shaft & bearings for the oil so dry it will have some play but not a lot, is the play in and out or side to side.

This condition is normal. As long as the shaft wheel spins freely and the wheels don’t contact their respective housings, the assembly will function properly.

JayRolla Proven Member. Actually a little side to side is not bad as long as the blades dont touch. The bad shaft play is in and out. You want to try and pull it in and out pretty hard, if it moves a good amount its probably rebuild time.

Turbo Failure Symptoms

1. POWER LOSS. If you notice that your car isn’t accelerating as powerfully as it used to, or is slow to react to your input, this might be a sign that your turbo is failing.
2. WHINING ENGINE.
3. EXHAUST SMOKE.
4. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.
5. OIL/LUBRICATION.
6. DAMAGED SEALS.
7. FOREIGN OBJECTS/DEPOSITS.
8. WEAR & TEAR.

Stick your hand in the turbo. Try to move that fin around in and out or up and down and see if it moves at all. If it moves alot you got issues, if ot dosent move alot you got no problems. Also if when you boost and let off you start blowing out oil it’s another sign your seals in the turbo are going usually.

Shaft play is caused by the bearings in the center section of the turbo wearing out over time. When a bearing is worn, shaft play, a side to side wiggling motion of the shaft occurs. This in turn causes the shaft to scrape against the inside of the turbo and often produces a high-pitched whine or whizzing noise.

Loud Whining Noise When the boost is running, a failing turbo could make a loud whining noise. The noise usually sounds like a siren, and it tends to get louder as the problem aggravates.

It can, but… If there’s a lot of shaft play, chances are either the turbine wheel or compressor wheel already hit the housing and have been ruined.

Not balancing the wheels will cause the turbo to fail rapidly just like a race engine needs to be balanced. The turbo will be happy spinning free using all of its potential.

You cannot personally rebuild a turbo. The shafts have to be balanced and the seals replaced. If it has pitting, it might not even be in good enough condition to be a core.

Normal range from an experienced turbo repair shop for a typical rebuild would be $275-400 which covers parts and labor (depending on the turbo model/cost of parts). This would include a complete tear down and cleaning/blasting of every single part, new bearings, thrust components, seals, and rebalance.

Much like aging diesel engines, the turbochargers equipped on them don’t have to be thrown away when they need a little freshening up, they can be rebuilt easily, and on the cheap.

A turbocharged engine can produce more power overall than the same engine without charging. In such cases, they either need to be replaced with a new unit or go for a better option of reconditioned turbos. It is important to note that reconditioned turbos offer the same quality as brand new turbos.