Air-drying increased the capacity of all the soil samples to adsorb phosphate. At an equilibrium solution concentration of 0.5 gg P ml-‘, the increase in the quantity of phosphate adsorbed following drying ranged from 23% to 70% of that adsorbed by the moist samples.

So before examining the soil if we sun dry it, the moisture will evaporate because of which the soil particles will become loose and the dark color (because of high organic matter) will fade. They do not need to be but do need to be dried at a low temperature. The reason is to avoid changing the soil while drying it.

Moist soil samples must be air dried as soon as possible before being bagged and sent to a soil testing lab. Drying is best accomplished by spreading each sample on paper to air dry at room temperature. Do not oven dry the samples. Samples may also be bagged and frozen for shipping.

Should the sample be dry? Do not bring in wet samples. If it is necessary to sample wet soil, spread the sample on a sheet of newspaper and allow it to dry at room temperature.

If excess moisture is caused by rain, there are a few things you can do. One is to lift the plants up a bit with a pitch fork. Then add some well-composted mulch underneath. If it’s not possible, dig around the roots and add some mulch there.

Depending on the method picked, such as moving your plant to a sunnier location, it can generally take 2-3 days to dry. Usually, the soil should be completely dry within a week (if that’s your goal).

Strategies for Dealing with Water Logged Soils

1. Plant Cover Crops. Cover crops are an excellent way to use excess water.
2. Go No-Till. A more long term strategy, going no -till improves soil structure to help with drainage.
3. Add Organic Material.
4. Subsoil.
5. Build Raised Beds.
6. A Note About Sand.

Soil is generally composed of 50 percent solid material and 50 percent space. About 90 percent of the solid portion of soil is composed of tiny bits of rock and minerals. These solid particles range in size from fine clay to mid-range silt to relatively large, coarse sand.

Clay particles are very small. Unlike sand, you can’t see them without a microscope. Luckily, they bind together to form small lumps, which are visible. These lumps give the soil an open structure, which allows water to drain, air to get in and roots to thrive.

Poor Drainage in Yards

1. On a day when the soil in your yard is already moist, dig a square hole, 1 foot deep and 1 foot wide, in an area where water collects.
2. Pour water into the hole until it fills to the brim.
3. Check the hole after 3 hours to see how much water has drained away.

If the soil falls apart when you open your hand, then you have sandy soil and clay is not the issue. If the soil stays clumped together and then falls apart when you prod it, then your soil is in good condition. If the soil stays clumped and doesn’t fall apart when prodded, then you have clay soil.

Important Note: Do not roto-till clay after a heavy rain because it will destroy the clay structure, further compacting the soil. An easier method, if possible for you, is to simply apply 6 inches of quality topsoil over your existing clay soil and plant your lawn in that.

It should be noted that soakaways rarely work on heavy clay soils. This is defined as upper level of the groundwater that is naturally held within the soil, sub-soil or bedrock. It is not uncommon for the water table to rise during the wet months of winter and to fall during the allegedly drier summer months.

Most clay soils aren’t too severe and better drainage can usually be achieved by using a less expensive method. Applying lime or gypsum can do wonders for soil drainage whilst aeration and fertiliser management can further improve soil structure.

The fine particles in clay bind together, becoming like rock when they’re dry. Wet clay isn’t much easier to work with, because it’s dense, sticky and difficult to dig out without the shovel becoming stuck.

COLUMBIA — Make sure the soil is ready before you start digging in the garden. Soil that’s turned over when wet will form clods that will be very difficult to break apart later, Trinklein said. This is because wet soil is more easily compacted than dry soil.

Dig the organic matter into the top 10 inches of the clay soil, working backwards trying not to compact the dug soil. Digging with a sturdy spade is the best way, but using a rotavator works OK too. Be careful if you are using a rotavator, it’s likely to bounce off the compacted clay until you get the hang of it.

If your ground has high clay soils or massive clay, the lagoon is perfect for those types of soil. If you have a large lot the lagoon can be hidden from site and will not need much maintenance (out of site out of mind). Most commonly the lagoon is one of the most inexpensive types of systems (cheaper the better).

Methods for breaking up highly compacted soils include aerating and vertical mulching. Aerating involves running a machine called a core aerator over the ground. Core aerators remove plugs of soil. Run the machine over the area of compacted soil four or five times and leave the removed soil cores on the surface.

Adding gypsum to the soil reduces erosion by increasing the ability of soil to soak up water after precipitation, thus reducing runoff. Gypsum application also improves soil aeration and water percolation through the soil profile.

Most farmers and gardeners resort to using gypsum to salvage Alkali soils. However, applying too much gypsum in the soil may also mean eliminating essential nutrients from the soils such as aluminum, iron, and manganese. Removal of these nutrients may lead to poor plant growth.

The main reason for applying gypsum is to loosen and break up clay particles in the soil. It does not affect the pH of your soil and won’t harm or burn existing plants.

Clay can be a sticky mess, poorly drained and set like concrete. The traditional way to treat a large area of soil is powdered gypsum, which we sprinkle over and then dig it in. But it does take a long time to dissolve and it’ll be a couple of months before you get the full effects.

The use of gypsum allows the salt to leach away into the sub-soils below the roots of the lawn, rendering it harmless. Heavy watering is required in these areas to aid in the leaching process. Gypsum has no plant nutrients, such as nitrogen, so there is no chance of plant damage when using it.

Apply gypsum at 1 kilo per square metre, digging this into the top 10-15cm well. Gypsum works on the clay, breaking it up into small crumbly pieces making it easier to work with and also improves drainage. If the soil is a very heavy clay, then this may need to be done more than once.

Clay soils in commercial agricultural sites are often treated with gypsum to help break up the clay and enhance calcium, which breaks up excess sodium. The effects are short lived but serve to soften the soil enough for plowing and sowing.