If the pulley is wobbling with the fan, that implies the broken fan has taken out the waterpump from the vibration. If the fan clutch is gone, the fan wobbles, but not the pulley. The clutch is a large round unit between the fan and pulley.

When your motor is hot, you should be able to hear the fan kick in. If you can’t, pop the bonnet, and turn the vehicle off while watching the fan. If it comes to a fairly abrupt stop, the fan hub is working properly. If it keeps spinning round and round, your fan hub is knackered and needs to be repaired or replaced.

A thermal clutch fan operates using silicon fluid as a viscous coupling medium. When the clutch is cool and disengaged, most of the silicon fluid is stored in the reservoir allowing your fan clutch to slip relative to your water pump shaft thereby spinning at a lower RPM than the water pump.

The cooling fan control module in your vehicle is located at the front left of the engine compartment next to the radiator.

The quickest way to tell whether or not the electric fan(s) are working is to start the engine; let it reach normal operating temperature and then turn the A/C on. The cooling fan in the engine compartment should turn on to pull air through the radiator and A/C condenser.

To test a fan motor, unplug the electrical connector at the motor and use fused jumper wires to connect battery power and ground directly to the fan. If the fan does not operate, replace the motor. 2. If the motor tests OK, check the cooling fan thermo switch, located at the bottom of the radiator on the driver’s side.

A 120-pound woman who drinks five light beers over three hours is nearly drunk enough to be arrested for intoxicated driving; her BAC would be about 0.064. Add one more beer (or a shot of vodka), or subtract 30 minutes to an hour, and she could be above 0.08. This is particularly true for women with low tolerances.